BHUTAN 2003
compiled by Dion Hobcroft / K. David Bishop
27 June 2003
This was a very
special tour, one of the very best I have ever had the pleasure of
leading to Bhutan. In large part this success was due to a wonderful
group of participants and we would like to thank you all for your
contribution in making the entire tour such a great experience:
William Anderson, Tom Andrews, Jim and Linda Hargrove, Susan and
Warren Jones, Anne Kahle, Sam and Linda Kramer, George and Marion
Midgley and Jill Sadler.
I (David
Bishop) consider myself very privileged to have travelled so often and
so extensively throughout the kingdom of Bhutan (1994 to the present),
including 14 tours and treks. To have the opportunity to regularly
explore such an incredibly special destination and in the company of
such wonderful friends such as Chhimmi, Wangdi, Kandu and Pema and
many others is memorable indeed. The vastness and beauty of Bhutan’s
forests and its other habitats is to experience a rare window onto
what Asia and the Himalayas once were like. Added to this is the spice
created by the opportunity of making very real discoveries including
encountering species little known or previously unrecorded in Bhutan.
Witness this year’s astounding flock of Grandalas. Bhutan never fails
to rejuvenate my soul and makes me want to return there time after
time. The addition of Dion as co-leader only enhanced this perception.
The following
is a summary of our daily activities, including some of the trip’s
highlights together with a list of what we heard and saw. Nevertheless
it only conveys part of the story and can never really express the
wonderful sights and sounds of Bhutan, its land, its forests, wildlife
and its people.
Thank you
K. David Bishop
Diary
March 21-22 Fly USA to Delhi, India.
Nearly everyone arrived a day early in order to ‘rest’. So we enjoyed
a very productive birding trip to the Basai wetlands and Sultanpur (Jheel)
National Park in the company of local birders Bill Harvey and Mike
Prince. Basai provided a true wetland spectacular with large flocks of
Bar-headed Geese and hundreds of wintering shorebirds and waterfowl.
Amongst all of these birds we enjoyed a Wryneck, several Greater
Spotted Eagles and a single Imperial Eagle, cryptic Moustached
Warblers and a pair of Indian Grey Hornbills. And a rare (for India)
Horned Grebe, including much to David’s delight, one individual in
breeding plumage.
As always
Sultanpur National Park with its wetlands and adjacent areas of scrub,
farmland and Acacia woodland produced an exciting array of birds and
mammals. Highlights included Sarus and Common cranes, Black-necked and
Woolly-necked storks, local and scarce endemics including Indian
Courser, Yellow-wattled Lapwing and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse and an
early arrival in the form of a couple of stunning silver male Asian
Paradise-Flycatchers. Several sumptuous male Plum-headed Parakeets and
a male Black-rumped Flameback attacking its reflection in a window all
contributed to a great first day.
NIGHT: Radisson Hotel, Airport,
Delhi
March 23 Delhi:
AM Okhla, Yamuna River; PM Delhi woodlands. Following
the great success of our unscheduled day in Delhi last year, we again
amended our itinerary to include this day as part of the regular
proceedings. Our Delhi overnight (for those arriving into India during
the early hours of the morning) ensures there is no likelihood of
participants missing the connection to Bhutan. Furthermore, it gave
everyone time to rest and recuperate, as well as to see many birds we
would not see on the rest of the tour.
Few large cities
can equal Delhi in the number, variety, and tameness of its birds.
During the Palearctic winter, many species migrate south to the Indian
sub-continent and supplement Delhi's resident bird fauna. The city’s
numerous parks, ruins, and gardens function as a huge man-made oasis
for birds and other wildlife in an otherwise semi-arid region. Hindu
reverence for life also contributes to the approachability of so many
birds.
We spent the
morning birding at Okhla along the Yamuna River and were joined by
several local birders from the Delhi Bird Club. While not a very
salubrious place, it is remarkably birdy. Birding began from a good
vantage point on the west bank where we able to view large numbers of
ducks and other waterbirds. We then drove across the barrage to the
east bank and explored a mosaic of scrub, marshes and farmland. Among
the large number of waterbirds that were present, we found 300 Greater
Flamingo, Open-billed and Painted storks, Long-legged Buzzard,
Brown-headed Gull, a good diversity of shorebirds, Yellow-footed Green
Pigeon, Green Bee-eaters, Hoopoe, stunning Citrine Wagtails, the rare
and localised endemic White-tailed Stone Chat, Bluethroat, and
breeding plumaged Black-breasted and Streaked weavers.
The afternoon was
spent wandering in a delightful patch of woodland behind the Polo Club
where we enjoyed good studies of Eurasian Stone-Curlew, Grey Francolin
and some magnificent Indian Peafowl.
NIGHT: Radisson Hotel, Airport,
Delhi.
March 24 Fly Delhi to Paro, Bhutan.
This morning we flew from Delhi via Kathmandu to Paro, the only
airport in the Kingdom of Bhutan- and what a beautiful airport to
arrive at. During the afternoon we headed into the village of Paro and
birded along the river that flows in front of the Paro Dzong. There we
were treated to sensational views of Ibisbill. If this was not
sensational enough David taped in a stellar Black-tailed Crake that
gave everyone exceptional views of one of Asia’s most difficult to see
rails. Birding our way up the lovely Paro valley towards imposing and
historically important albeit ruined Drugyel Dzong we found
White-collared Blackbirds, Brown Dipper, Blue-fronted Redstart and,
for a lucky few, a Wallcreeper feeding on the Dzong walls (what a well
named bird).
NIGHT: Detchen Hotel, Paro
March 25 Cheli La and then drive to
Thimphu. What a morning!
As we ascended the mountains we were treated to a pheasant spectacular
that left even the leaders speechless. Two pairs of Kalij Pheasant
provided our first excellent views of this species. This was followed
by the first of a total 19 Himalayan Monal. The views of this stunning
pheasant were extraordinary in the extreme as males glowed in the sun
providing exceptional and lingering studies down to within 80 metres!
The iridescent purple, blue and copper almost metal clad feathering
places this bird on a pedestal of surely one of the world’s most
spectacular birds. To cap this off 10 Blood Pheasants decided to waltz
leisurely across the road in front of the bus. Add to this stunning
views of the sacred 7,000 metre mountain Jomolhari and a breakfast at
13,400 feet and you had the ingredients of an unforgettable morning’s
birding.
The conditions
were still quite winter like at the pass and as result we found
several high-altitude migrants including lovely Orange-flanked Bush
Robin, the seldom seen White-throated Redstart and a small flock of
Altai Accentors. Opting to bird lower we found a small flock of the
rarely encountered Brown Parrotbill and an excellent view of a male
Dark-breasted Rosefinch amongst many others. Reluctantly we drove onto
the capital of Thimphu for the night.
During the night
we were awakened by an earthquake that measured 5.5 on the Richter
Scale. Like an express train that rolled through there was no damage
fortunately. This is a very rare event in Bhutan and gave everyone a
reality check on the credibility on keeping the local spirits happy.
NIGHT: Riversideview Hotel, Thimphu
March 26 Cheri
Valley and Thimphu area. A beautiful morning exploring the
Cheri Valley with a breakfast set in a fairytale like setting of fast
flowing torrents, prayer flags, traditional architecture and forests
that extend from one mountain top to another. We found some excellent
rare birds on this morning including the Yellow-rumped Honeyguide in
attendance at a series of rock beehives. Another good discovery was a
trio of Fire-tailed Myzornis and lengthy scope views of the very shy
Spotted Forktail. We encountered our first Mountain Hawk-Eagle,
Gold-billed Blue Magpie, Mrs. Gould’s and Green-tailed sunbirds and a
couple of group members saw a handsome Yellow-throated Marten bolt
across the road.
Behind the Thimphu
Fitness Centre we sent Dion into the swamp to try and flush some
rarities and yet another Black-tailed Crake was discovered but
unfortunately no Wood or Solitary Snipe (although a Common Snipe gave
a few heart flutters – a real rarity in Bhutan). The afternoon was set
aside for sightseeing and a rare opportunity to go shopping.
NIGHT: Riversideview Hotel, Thimphu
March 27
Thimpu via Dochu La to Punakha.
An early morning departure today in order to
explore our first cool broadleaf evergreen forests on the east slope
of Dochu La (3118 m). Again, a superb breakfast was laid out by the
camp staff as we dined amidst myriads of prayer flags at the pass,
before we set off. Some of
the highlights included Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Plain-backed
Thrush, Grey-winged Blackbird, Ashy-throated Warbler, Rufous-gorgeted
Flycatcher, Green Shrike-Babbler, Hoary-throated Barwing, our first
Stripe-throated and Rufous-vented Yuhinas, another 4 Fire-tailed
Myzornis and Red-headed Bullfinch.
As we descended towards the drier valley of the
Tsang Chu (River) we decided to concentrate on finding birds on
migration. David’s intuition to examine a flowering Coral Tree turned
up a couple of Chestnut-tailed Starlings. In difficult windy
conditions we were treated to excellent views of one of the world’s
rarest raptors-the giant Pallas’s Fish Eagle. The more we searched the
river margins the more birds we discovered including Great Crested
Grebe, Ruddy Shelduck, Yellow-nibbed Duck (amongst 10 species of duck
we found in Bhutan), Osprey, River Lapwing and Common Kingfisher. But
the final highlight was an incredible view of a Wallcreeper that
foraged on a cut in the road-bank right next to the bus. What a great
way to finish yet another superb day.
NIGHT: Zangtho Pelri
Hotel, Punakha
March 28
Tashitang Valley. What a truly splendid location. At 1400
metres this area is considerably warmer than previous locations we had
birded and the warm mixed broadleaf forests punctuated with superb
waterfalls and the incredible power of the Mo Chu River make this a
very special place. And what a sensational breakfast location! Some of
today’s birding highlights included Crested Serpent Eagle, Black
Eagle, Kalij Pheasant, Ibisbill, Grey Nightjar, Crested Kingfisher,
Great and Golden-throated barbets, Greater Yellownape, Bay Woodpecker,
Scarlet Minivet, Black and Mountain bulbuls, Orange-bellied Leafbird,
Blue Rock Thrush, Scaly Thrush, a Long-billed Thrush that frustrated
many people, Dark-throated Thrush, both Little and Slaty-backed
forktails that gave crunching views, Yellow-vented and Grey-hooded
Warblers, Ultramarine Flycatcher, a super male Small Niltava,
Red-tailed Minla, Nepal Fulvetta, Whiskered and Black-lored Yuhina,
nesting Fire-capped Tit, Black-throated Sunbird and Fire-breasted
Flowerpecker, Grey Treepie and several groups of Assamese Macaques.
On our return
drive we explored the amazing Punakha Dzong where our Bhutanese guide,
Kandu, gave us a great cultural insight into life in the monastery.
All of the monks were very photogenic and it was a great way to finish
off yet another day in the land of the thunder dragon.
NIGHT: Zangtho
Pelri Hotel, Punakha
March 29 Drive from Punakha to Pele La.
Our early morning departure from Punakha to Pele La was punctuated
with numerous birding stops and many new wonderful birds, exquisite
vistas and rock faces festooned with mosses and licns and constantly
washed by tumbling falls. A surprise sighting was of three beautiful
Orange-headed Thrushes followed by a small flock of Wedge-tailed Green
Pigeons. We taped in a co-operative Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler and
everyone was impressed with a pair of bizarre Blue-bearded Bee-eaters
- from their behaviour they were presumably nesting in the vicinity;
Blue-throated Barbet, Speckled Piculet, Grey-headed Woodpecker,
Blue-capped Rock-Thrush, striking Black-faced Warbler, Striated
Prinia, Rufous-capped Babbler, Rufous-winged Fulvetta and
Chestnut-tailed Minla.
As we approached
Pele La it became apparent that extensive road works were going to
make it difficult to find the Satyr Tragopan. We did find one of
Bhutan’s top birds here though when after a lengthy attempt we all
enjoyed scope views of the shy Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler - a
rare bamboo-probing specialist with an incredible bill. In addition
everyone enjoyed great views also of Rusty-flanked Treecreeper,
White-throated, Striated and Streaked laughingthrushes, six species of
tits, Red Crossbill and the striking Collared Grosbeak.
NIGHT: Camping
at Pele La.
March 30 Pele
La and then drive to Trongsa. With roadwork disturbance on the
main road we opted to bird down the old road and this provided a great
result. Thanks to some brilliant ‘scope work by Dion we were all
treated to extended views of two Himalayan Black Bears (new for David
and Dion plus our Bhutanese crew). We watched one of the bears in the
telescope as it slept peacefully in the sun and also found two Ghorals
- a curious goat-like antelope endemic to the Himalayan peaks. The
tragopan remained elusive but we enjoyed more views of the fabulous
Himalayan Monal - one male almost flying into the group in response to
playback. Other birds spotted in the morning included Rufous-bellied
and Darjeeling woodpeckers, Alpine Accentor, Golden Bush Robin,
Grey-sided Bush Warbler, Buff-barred Warbler and Crimson-browed Finch.
After breakfast
gigantic Himalayan Griffon Vultures, struggling to find the first
thermals of the morning, were gliding literally just around our
campsite. As we descended a little we hit a high point of activity
that included 18 Himalayan Griffon Vultures, a Golden Eagle and then
it happened - an adult Lammergeier flew through the vulture kettle
giving everyone superb views. This was the first Lammergeier seen on a
Bhutan VENT tour and everyone was feeling lucky. Although we needed no
convincing that we were experiencing something special we enjoyed our
first good views of a flock of Snow Pigeons wheeling through the
vultures.
Breaking our
journey at the Chendibji Chorten set against the backdrop of the wild
Black Mountains we had another enormous stroke of good fortune when a
flock of that legendary blue bird of the Himalayas -the unbelievably
blue Grandala wheeled against the pine forests. Another first for a
Bhutan VENT tour and another indication that there was severe weather
at high altitude. Finally we made it to Trongsa with a spectacular
view of the Dzong. NIGHT: Trongsa
March 31 Trongsa to Shemgang.
A long but incredibly spectacular drive through superb forest and
agricultural land made it difficult not to stop every 100 metres but
the good birds kept coming our way: a Eurasian Sparrowhawk mobbed a
dark-morph Booted Eagle, Spotted Dove, Asian Barred Owlet, Himalayan
Swiftlet, Nepal House Martin, Eurasian Crag Martin, Grey Wagtail,
Blue-throated Flycatcher, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, White-browed
Shrike-Babbler, White-crested and the elusive Blue-winged
Laughingthrush, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch
and Crested Bunting were amongst the highlights. We also encountered
our first troops of the endemic Golden Langur as they unconcernedly
watched us as we watched them eating the new leaves off various trees.
A Giant Squirrel found at our lunch stop impressed participants not
only with its size but the way it draped itself in the branches. As we
approached our camp we flushed a Wild Boar from the roadside.
NIGHT: Camping near Tingtibi
April 1-2 The
Shemgang Road. At 650 metres our campsite near Tingtibi
permitted access to our lowest altitude in Bhutan and a host of bird
species we were not to encounter elsewhere. The condition of the
forest and the access to different altitudes via the Shemgang Road
makes this an Asian birder’s paradise. With wet conditions the
pressure was on to find the birds between the heavy showers of rain
but in the end we did very well. Highlights included several great
views of the endangered Rufous-necked Hornbill. This was probably
closely followed by perched views of Great Hornbill – what a bird! It
was hard to overlook the stunning Pin-tailed Green Pigeon and the
incredible scope views we had of a pair of the very rarely seen
Beautiful Nuthatch feeding in an epiphyte clad tree. The Shemgang Road
is currently the only global site where you have a chance of seeing
this enigmatic species.
Other good birds
we found included Northern Goshawk, Barred Cuckoo-dove, Mountain
Imperial Pigeon, Drongo Cuckoo, Asian Barred Owlet, Grey-crowned Pygmy
Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, Grey-chinned Minivet, Bar-winged
Flycatcher-shrike, Large Wood-shrike, Black-crested and Ashy Bulbul,
Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Common Tailorbird, Hill Prinia, Little
Pied Flycatcher, the diminutive Pygmy Wren Babbler, White-browed
Scimitar Babbler, Black-eared Shrike Babbler, Greater and Lesser
Necklaced Laughingthrush, Rufous-necked Laughingthrush, Streaked
Spiderhunter, Hair-crested Drongo and the sensational Green Magpie.
NIGHTS: Camping near Tingtibi.
April 3 Shemgang to Trongsa.
Another wonder-filled day, replete with magical landscapes, great
birds and plants as we retraced our steps back to Trongsa. It all
began with a spectacular morning’s birding with incredible views of
Rufous-necked Hornbill perched right beside the bus, allowing superb
photographic opportunities and an excellent view of a male Pin-tailed
Green Pigeon in a fruiting tree next to our vehicle. A distant Rufous-bellied
Eagle was seen by a lucky few as was the rarely seen Rufous-faced
Warbler. We were all treated to excellent views of Maroon Oriole,
White-throated Bulbul and Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike plus many other
species. Eventually, howver, it was time to return to Trongsa where
the lure of a hot shower may have even outscored some of the birds
seen on this last morning on the incredible Shemgang Road.
NIGHT: Trongsa
April 4 Trongsa
to Bumthang. After the continuous run of birding highlights
this day proved to be bit slow especially in the high altitude pass at
Yutong La. Our strenuous Collared Owlet impersonations led to us being
mobbed by the usual suspects. Everybody enjoyed a male Black Redstart
and one lucky observer had a White-browed Bush Robin briefly reveal
itself in a clump of bamboo.
The second half of
the day brought quite a change of pace with a delightful ramble
through the pine forests of the cold upland Bumthang valleys. We
enjoyed numerous Black-billed Magpies of the Tibetan race bottae that
has been split by some authorities. There were fields of Red-billed
Choughs and another field full of Russet Sparrows plus several
Beautiful Rosefinches and a couple of both Oriental Skylarks and
Little Buntings. The latter part of the afternoon was a rare time to
catch up on notes and revel in the intricacies of Aum Leki’s weavings
at her delightful Jakar Guesthouse.
NIGHTS: Jakar
April 5 Jakar
to Ura, crossing the Thrumsing La Pass (3900 metres) to Sengor.
The journey to our camp at Sengor is surely one of
the engineering marvels of the world. Despite the occasionally
imperfect weather we still enjoyed spectacular views of truly
incredible vistas covered with forests that really do extend as far as
the eye can see.
A
stop at the medieval village of Ura and its ornate monastery reminded
us all just how different and how very special the Kingdom of Bhutan
is! Crossing Thrumsing La (complete with fresh snow) and then a
vertiginous descent as ever amidst seemingly unending and untouched
primeval forests we had commenced our journey along the Limithang
Road. The panoply of rhododendrons on the descent of Thrumsing La
presented a most exquisite floral display. One of the great birds of
the day was a singing Long-tailed Thrush that was scoped very well and
a unique chance to study this supreme skulker. Equally exciting were a
pair of Great Parrotbills that provided an excellent view. Only the
second time this species has been seen on a VENT Bhutan tour. We also
enjoyed Ibisbill, stunning male Orange-flanked Bush Robins, our first
Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler, for most people their first Green
Shrike-Babbler. A Serow was scoped whilst feeding on an opposite
“hill” side and everybody was able to view this rarely seen ungulate
between the clouds.
NIGHT: Camping Sengor
April 6 Sengor
to Lower Limithang Road. A beautiful crisp morning at Sengor
saw us moving into the forest stealthily approaching a calling Satyr
Tragopan. Despite our best efforts it proved to have the upper hand
and remained hidden in the dense forest. But oh that forest. More good
birds kept coming our way including a stunning male Crimson-browed
Finch, a superb Crested Serpent Eagle that perched over the road, our
only Besra of the trip, several Mountain Hawk-Eagles including
displaying birds, close flying Fork-tailed Swifts, the stunning little
Chestnut-headed Tesia (egg on legs), Blyth’s Leaf Warbler,
Golden-spectacled Warbler, Dark-sided Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied
Fantail and another pair of Slender-billed Scimitar-Babblers.
After another great
lunch we birded below Namling. A super discovery was a female
Black-headed Shrike Babbler, a major rarity – thanks George. Then we
hit one of those great flocks of shimmering activity in a patch of
dense bamboo that revealed the gorgeous Golden-breasted Fulvetta,
Golden Babbler and the icing on the cake - 30 plus Black-throated
Parrotbills. It had been quite a day and as we settled into camp we
were serenaded by Mountain and Collared Scops owls plus Collared Owlet
and Large Hawk-Cuckoo.
NIGHT: Camping Yongkola, Limithang Road (1900m)
April 7-8 Lower
Limithang Road. Surely this is one of the planet’s most
incredible birding locations and we lost no time to try and see as
many of this area’s special birds as we could. Our first morning began
somewhat slowly but quickly gained momentum: Yellow-throated Fulvetta,
Oriental Cuckoo and finally a pocket-sized Collared Owlet, Red-headed
Trogon, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Slaty-bellied and Grey-bellied
tesias, Large Niltava, Pale Blue Flycatcher and an absolutely mega
Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler that sang with gusto and afforded superb
views. Then we bumped into one of those flocks and all hell broke
loose as we had mind- blowing views of the incredible Cutia (30 plus).
After lunch we birded
down the valley and encountered no less than eight Rufous-necked
Hornbills, Striated Bulbul, a troop of very handsome Capped Langur,
Spot-winged Grosbeak, Rufous-bellied Eagle, an incredibly co-operative
Slender-billed Oriole and one of those frustratingly elusive Large
Hawk-Cuckoos that sat out brilliantly and impressed everyone at its
raptor mimicry.
Next morning it was
up the hill and we stopped for a flock of rarely encountered Speckled
Wood Pigeons. We lined up at the magic location and were treated to
superb views of a female Ward’s Trogon - what a bird! Then we
connected with the beautiful and little known Broad-billed Warbler. A
lucky few had the window on a legendarily elusive Blue-fronted Robin
and just about everyone enjoyed a good look at its close cousin the
White-tailed Robin.
The afternoon we
concentrated on some seriously rare birds and we were all delighted
when we found the legendary Wedge-billed Wren Babbler. This bulldozer
of the wren-babbler tribe was only rediscovered a couple of years ago
and the Limithang Road remains the only site where you might find it
in the world. Despite coming in very close, failing light prevented us
seeing a Long-billed Wren-Babbler. Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbills
(yet another major highlight) and Rusty-fronted Barwing were two more
good discoveries.
NIGHTS: Camping Yongkola, Limithang Road.
April 9 Drive
Limithang Road to Jakar (Bumthang Valley). Our last morning
here did not disappoint and highlights included: Scarlet Finch, Gold-naped
Finch, Brownish-flanked Bush-Warbler and then we were treated to a
scintillating mixed foraging flock that dazzled us not only in its
variety but in the speed with which it shimmered through the bamboo.
Pride of place went to several Coral-billed Scimitar-Babblers and a
stunning male Black-headed Shrike Babbler. A lucky few caught up with
Grey-sided Laughingthrush and for those unlucky enough to have missed
them before we found both Greater Rufous-headed and Black-throated
parrotbills, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Slaty-bellied Tesia and further
great views of the Wedge-billed Wren-Babbler. It was a morning of full
of “real” birds but sadly it was time to leave. The return drive was
highlighted not only by over 20 Blood Pheasants but in a deft piece of
ornithological brilliance David taped in the very rare Bar-winged
Wren-Babbler to within a metre and no one could miss it. By this stage
everyone had been converted to becoming wren-babbler aficionados.
NIGHT: Aum Leki’s Guesthouse, Jakar
April 10 Jakar
to Punakha. A long days drive but not without fantastic
scenery, beautiful people and great birds including Chestnut-crowned
Laughingthrush and a Leopard heard close to the road.
NIGHT: Zangtho
Pelri, Punakha
April 11
Punakha to Dochu La and return to Punakha. This morning we
concentrated on Satyr Tragopan but again we could only get a few
tantalising calls. Our trail through magical Fir-Rhodendron-Bamboo
forests was truly superb and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush was
reseen for those that had missed it the day before. After lunch we
struck a golden patch of birding enjoying great views of many species.
One of the highlights was a female of the rarely seen Rufous-breasted
Bush Robin and everyone enjoyed the glowing Rufous-bellied Niltava and
Ultramarine Flycatchers. Some lucky observers caught glimpses of the
shy Red-billed Leiothrix and there were great views of several
woodpeckers and barbets, Brown-throated Treecreeper, several warblers
and swifts including White-throated Needletails making for a very
enjoyable afternoon. En route back to Punakha we had another
superb view of a Pallas’s Fish Eagle.
NIGHT: Zangtho Pelri, Punakha
April 12
Punakha via Tashitang Road to Paro. Our last morning of
birding was to end on yet another high note. A sumptuous breakfast
feast and then a near mythical Long-billed Thrush was found feeding in
the mud on the roadside (a new bird for David) and we all enjoyed an
excellent view. What a bill! There was more to follow in the form of
an exquisite male Emerald Cuckoo that glowed in the sun. For the icing
on the cake a singing Spotted Wren Babbler (making a total of five
wren-babblers seen and two heard) performed very well.
It was sadly time to
leave and we drove through to Paro ready for our early morning
departure the next day. We had our final lunch at Dochu La with Kandu,
Chimmmi, Wangdi, Pema and the camp crew who had looked after us so
well for our three weeks in the Kingdom of Bhutan and it made us even
sadder. They had truly been fantastic. As we descended over the pass
we were treated to a magic flock of Snow Pigeons wheeling beside us, a
fantastic last birding spectacular. We bade farewell to Warren and
Susan Jones who were staying on to enjoy a fabulous cultural tour.
NIGHT: Detchen Hotel, Paro
April 13 Fly
Paro to Delhi. An early morning departure and thanks to
David’s best efforts we managed to get most people seats on the right
hand side hoping for a clear view of the great peaks of the Himalayas.
This is exactly what eventuated and the views were spectacular as we
flew parallel to Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu,
Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Annapurna. All of these peaks are greater than
8000 metres with of course Everest the highest in the world at 8848
metres. Arrival into Delhi was smooth and we enjoyed a farewell dinner
of Italian food at the Radisson.
Trip List
©
Dion Hobcroft / K. David Bishop
END
Bhutan
Map
