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Kolkata
Salt Lake
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Introduction
Most large cities in India hold a surprisingly diverse population of birds despite the ever-increasing bustle of humanity, dwindling habitat and life-threatening pollution. Kolkata city is no exception. Both local residents and the traveler to the city can expect to see well over a hundred species, over a few pleasant winter mornings, in the immediate neighbourhood of the city. Good birds like Stork-billed Kingfisher, Lineated and Blue-throated Barbet, Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker,
Black-hooded Oriole, Bronze-winged Jacana, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Richard’s Pipit, Bengal Bushlark, Brown Shrike and others are relatively widespread and often common in this area, located at end of the Indo-Gangetic plain.
Kolkata was reclaimed from estuarine saltwater marshland and the East Kolkata Wetlands, a water body of considerable size and significance (and a recently declared Ramsar site), stretches towards Bangladesh and the Bay of Bengal from the eastern edge of the city. The abundance of water close at hand and the remnants of the marshy landscape still attract, a large but diminishing, population of water dependent birds to the environs. The tree plantation spree witnessed in response to
dangerous levels of atmospheric pollution also resulted in the greening of the city, creating new habitat for arboreal birds. As a result, birds which were lost for well over four decades, like the Oriental Pratincole, came back to breed this year only a few kilometers from Kolkata airport. And the Black-naped Oriole, a vagrant winter visitor from the east, has become established as a regular in our gardens and groves over the last ten years or so. Small influxes of an extremely
limited number of species do not address the gaps created when the last Pallas’s Fish Eagle, Swamp Partridge, Spot-billed Pelican, Baer’s Pochard, Black-crested Baza, Asian Dowitcher, Brown-winged Kingfisher, Mangrove Whistler, Bristled Grassbird were developed out of their Salt lake home in the late 60’s. But corrections, even small ones, are encouraging and who can say that the city will not wake up one morning to the familiar wing beats of a Black Eagle quartering the edge of
the wetlands.
You can find a fair number of bird species inside the city, especially where there are clumps of trees. Aside from the innumerable House Crows and ever present Black Kites, most areas hold the commoner city birds like House Sparrow, Common Myna, Common Tailorbird, Coppersmith and Blue-throated Barbet, Asian Koel, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Oriental Magpie Robin, White Wagtails (winter) and a oriole or woodpecker species. Waterside stretches are home to numerous Indian Pond Herons and the
ever-present White-breasted Kingfisher.
Going out to bird watch, one has a few alternatives. The marshland area lies to the north and east of the city and the densely planted sizeable gardens/orchards are spread around the city.
Marshland area:
Rajarhat Bypass
As you leave Kolkata airport, the recently opened Bypass
to Kolkata takes you through open marshy country, parts of which are being taken
over for the development of a new township. The habitat is suitable for wetland
birds and attracts a large number of Asian Openbills and other waders. Breeding Oriental Praticoles, Pheasant-tailed Jacanas and Ashy Woodswallows are summer highlights while winter sees a large influx of passerines and raptors. Pied Harriers, Peregrine Falcon, Common
Kestrel, Black-shouldered Kite are all possible in one morning and the largest concentration of 80 White-rumped Vultures in the Kolkata area is to be found resting on this stretch of road. Smaller bird species include specialties like Oriental Reed Warbler, Bluethroat, Bengal Bushlark and Oriental Skylark.
Update June 2008: The Rajarhat site is almost gone now and only small
patches remain. The Pratincoles have stopped breeding and winter birding is
difficult in the remnant patches due to pollution from construction activity
Nalban Fishery Complex
Stretching from the edge of Salt Lakes Technology Park, the area is a vast inter-connected water body used for commercial fishery. Large waders like Great and Intermediate Egret, Grey and Purple Heron along with three cormorant species are the commonly observed inhabitants. But flocks of Asian Openbill exceeding a couple of thousand descend if food is plentiful and winter often sees large flocks of Pied Avocet and Black-headed Gulls spending time on the shallow stretches of water.
The water side vegetation holds rarities like Bluethroat, Rubythroat, Rusty-rumped Warbler, Striated Grassbird (breeding), Watercock, Baillon’s and Ruddy Crake, Wryneck, Clamorous Reed Warblers and this is the best place to see the difficult Blunt-winged Warbler. Raptors include Marsh Harriers and, with luck, a Brahminy Kite or Osprey. Real rarities recorded include Grey-headed Lapwing, Common Shelduck and Great Crested Grebe. Bitterns, stilts, snipes, swallows, plovers, stints,
wagtails all add to the list of over 150 species recorded in the area.
Ruby General Hospital area
Off the Eastern Metropolitan By Pass on the road to Garia is a small patch of wasteland at the edge of the East Kolkata wetlands. This rapidly developing area is a must visit for those who want to see the recently split Bengal Bushlark, a common resident. The area is also good for pipits, Zitting Cisticola, Common Snipe, Baillon’s Crake, Hoopoe, Yellow and Cinnamon Bittern and the lovely tricolor ssp. of the Long-tailed Shrike.
Update June 2008: The Ruby site has been completely taken over by housing
development - not worth a visit anymore.
IIM Joka area
This area behind the Indian Institute of Management, Joka
still holds some significant open marshy country. It is good for breeding birds
like Watercock, Cinnamon, Black and Yellow Bitterns, Purple Swamphen, Bengal
Bushlark, Oriental Skylark, Zitting Cisticola, breeding Black-breasted Weavers,
Black-shouldered Kite and local rarities like White-eyed Buzzard, Bluethroat
etc. Winter birding is difficult due to inaccessibility but should be rewarding
for the adventurous.
Gardens and Groves:
Indian Botanic Garden, Shibpur, Howrah
Spread over 270 acres on the banks of the Hugli River, this 230 year old garden is a haven for passerine birds and also attracts a small number of water dependent species. All common garden species are found in the area can be seen here, plus a few local rarities. Rufous Woodpecker, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Black Bittern, Lineated Barbet, Black-naped Oriole, Brown Hawk Owl, Bronzed Drongo, Yellow-browed and Greenish Warbler, Booted Eagle are some of the species that you will come
across on a walk in the garden. Rarities like Asian Brown Flycatcher, Eurasian Cuckoo and Black-capped Kingfisher have been recorded in passage and more are waiting to be observed. A feral breeding population of Red-breasted Parakeet is an added attraction.
Chintamani Kar Bird Sanctuary, Narendrapur, 24 Parganas
This small (17 acre) sanctuary is a short drive to the south of the city. The sanctuary is an old abandoned orchard and the area surrounding it is a mix of orchards and grassland. Many forest species are found in the area and include Black-naped Monarch, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Common Hawk Cuckoo, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Emerald Dove, Streak-throated Woodpecker, Orange-headed Thrush, Verditer Flycatcher, White-throated Fantail, Crested Serpent Eagle, Large-tailed Nightjar,
Ashy Woodswallow, Blyth’s Reed Warbler. Rarities include Tickell’s Thrush, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo,
Slaty-legged Crake, Eurasian Watercock, Scarlet-breasted
Flowerpecker, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Scaly Thrush,
Little Spiderhunter, Blue-throated Flycatcher and White-eyed Buzzard. The recently rediscovered Large-billed Reed Warbler was found at the edges of the Sanctuary.
Lakes:
Santragachi Jheel, Howrah
Just a 20 minute drive from the center of Kolkata lies a 13,75,000 square feet lake, known as the Santragachi Jheel. Winter months (October to March) draw 4000 to 5000 water birds to this safe haven. Santragachi is hemmed in by habitation and railway tracks. Water hyacinth dominates the surface and there is very little green cover. But the birds more than make up in their variety, numbers and in the unconcerned way they make Santragachi a home, making viewing them easy and
pleasurable. Lesser Whistling-Ducks dominate this lake, but Gadwall, Garganey and Northern Pintail can be seen in sizeable numbers too. Amongst the other duck species, the threatened Ferruginous Pochard and the dwindling Comb Duck are noteworthy. Santragachi has also recorded vagrants like Baikal Teal and Falcated Duck. But the star attractions at this water body are the rare Swinhoe’s Snipe and the small wintering flock of Fulvous Whistling-ducks.
Geography & Topography:
Located at 22°54.35N, 88°33.42E, Kolkata is situated on the banks of the River Hugli
and is close to the Bay of Bengal. The Sunderbans biosphere is only a 100kms from the
city. Kolkata is on the Indo-Gangetic plain and is at sea level throughout. Most of the
city was originally marshy wetlands and remnants are still to be found where it has
escaped urbanisation or has not been converted into commercial wetland fishery use. 300+
years of human habitation has led to the establishment of mature trees and shrubs and
large groves and gardens are common today. This has effectively changed the original
marshland to a primarily moist deciduous habitat which flourishes in the high rainfall and
sunny humid climate.
Climate
Sunny and humid. High rainfall in the monsoons.
Summer ( April - Sept) temperatures : Hi: 37 C / Lo : 28 C
Winter ( Nov - Feb ) temperatures : Hi: 30 C / Lo : 13 C
Birding Season
Winter
Sunlight hours
Summer : 5.00 am to 5.30 pm
Winter: 6.30 am to 4.30 pm
Common birds, relatively abundant across the city through the year, are:
| House Crow |
Spotted Dove |
Jungle Babbler |
| House Sparrow |
Chestnut-tailed Starling |
Black-rumped Flameback |
| Black Kite |
Asian Koel |
Greater Coucal |
| Common Myna |
Coppersmith Barbet |
Common Tailorbird |
| Rock Pigeon |
Purple Sunbird |
Rufous Treepie |
| Asian Pied Starling |
White-throated Kingfisher |
Spotted Owlet |
| Jungle Myna |
Little Cormorant |
Black-hooded Oriole |
| Oriental Magpie Robin |
House Swift |
Rose-ringed Parakeet |
| Indian Pond Heron |
Blue-throated Barbet |
Black Drongo |
| Cattle Egret |
Red Vented Bulbul |
Purple-rumped Sunbird |
The ideal Kolkata birdwatching itinerary would be a start at Tolly ( 6.00 am to 7.30 am) , a short
drive to the Botanics (8.30am - 10.00 am), stop over at Santragachi (10.30am to noon) and
the afternoon for Salt Lake/Nalban. Throw in Narendrapur if you have an extra day.
Happy birding !
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Copyright 2002 - 2008 Sumit K Sen
June 2008, Kolkata
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