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Another three hour journey saw our arrival at Hornbill Camp. The
approach roads looked very encouraging as we had descended from the
hills down to river level, the Periyar river which has been damned
further downstream so there are flooded lagoon areas alongside the
main river.
As we checked in we were surprised and delighted to find we were the
only guests! Total peace and quiet. Manoj had been "hired" for the
duration of our stay but we told him to go home as it was only 90
minutes drive away and as he had previously been on tour before
joining us we were keen that he spent some time with his wife and
daughter, and besides we had no intention of going very far. We had
found a little paradise.
Our tented accommodation was situated on the river bank
and right next to the main dining area so we could
readily see when meals were available etc.
Hornbill Camp
The tent itself was quite luxurious too. Decent beds, brick built
toilet around the back, but a proper shower and a mirror too! We had
electricity and an overhead fan. Luxury!
We had been pre-warned by previous visitors comments on the likes
of "Trip Advisor" that beers were not available so we had come
equipped with the usual G&L's. In an attempt to cool the Limca we
placed them in a bucket of water.
Not long after we arrived the heavens opened, the wind came up and a
thunderstorm passed through. It gave me time to relax with my bird
book and try and bring my notes up to date. The staff at Hornbill were
delightful and very attentive but as we were the only guests it gave
them something to do! A large notice board in the communal dining area
gives details of activities available. Half a days birding R1000
(about £15), a full day R1500. Use of bicycles and canoes free for 45
minutes. White Water rafting R14000 for a minimum of 14 people ...no
chance of that then. I decided the next day would be spent around the
camp and the following I would arrange a Tuk Tuk to Thatekkad
sanctuary, a mere R200 for the round trip. They told me I would need a
guide but I assured them I wouldn't as it was my intention to simply
stand around and wait for the photograph to happen. I was informed
that without a guide I wouldn't be allowed to wander around into the
woods and I said fine, having experienced woodland photography I knew
the opportunities would be very limited.
When we'd first arrived in Kerala, Praveen had asked me if there was
any species that I was keen to see. I replied that I was happy with
anything, good photographic opportunities were the most important but
if there was one species above all else it was a Sri Lankan Frogmouth.
I knew you can see one at Thattekkad and I knew that the only way to
find one is to be shown where. I would mull it over.
Later in the afternoon when the storm had passed I enquired about the
canoes and, leaving Claire with a book relaxing in the sun I set off
with the necessary safety camp canoeist to check out possibilities on
the river.
As I was the only one in camp, the 45 minutes soon became a couple
of hours or more as we explored further up river and some of the
waterways that led off it. The photographic opportunities were amazing
as you could quietly drift right up to the bushes that had Egrets,
Darters, Terns and other species perched in. I hadn't taken my camera
until I had seen the conditions. Perfect calm so with care I would be
OK. I had only recently read an advert for second hand camera
equipment on the " Birdforum" website. Someone was selling off the
remainder of their gear having lost their main lens and body in this
very river, they had become disillusioned especially as the insurance
company was reluctant to pay out. With your gear 30 feet under water,
retrieval would be impossible and I can understand
that any insurance company might be sceptical of the claim. I didn't
want to be in that position especially as we are talking several £K's
worth of equipment.
I worked out that if Claire sat in the middle of the canoe, she could
cradle my gear while I paddled but when we found a suitable target she
could pass the camera to me in the front.
Our first night over, we had slept well. The Limca in the bucket trick
hadn't worked particularly well but nevertheless, the previous day's
storm had cleared the atmosphere the previous evening so after an
acceptable dinner (they had laid out a buffet selection just for the
two of us!) it had been very pleasant
to sit on our riverside patio with
a G&L, even a tepid one. Up early I was out with the camera before
breakfast. Not too much about but I did manage one new "tick" the
usually common Red Vented Bulbul which had eluded me until now.
After breakfast Claire and I set off to explore the surrounds on
bicycles. We discovered another decent looking hotel not far away and
the price was similar to the camp. Set in nice grounds with water
frontage they might not offer the canoe trips but they did serve cold
beers I was told ! Maybe next time?! I went and chatted to an obvious
birder, he had a 500mm lens, who had been at Thetakkad that morning.
He wasn't in raptures about the place but he had been shown the
Frogmouth.
I was eagerly anticipating the afternoon canoe trip, if it was
anything like the previous day I would be in heaven. By the time we
cycled back I had decided to cancel the Tuk Tuk to Thetakkad booked
for the following morning.
Come the hour off we went, the previous day we had had brilliant views
of a River Tern. Today it wasn't there. However, the Whiskered Terns
and there were good views of
a Blue Tailed Bee Eater.
Blue -tailed Bee Eater
But we hadn't been as lucky as
the previous day. The temperature had started to rise again during the
day and following the exertion of another 2 hour paddle a cold drink
would have been so, so welcome. Never mind we had a tepid G&L on our
patio and I started to have fantasies about ice cubes. Although we had
electricity in camp, it was from a generator which only ran from about
7.30 pm until morning to operate the room fans.
Hence no cold drinks, but hang on
a minute, why not a gas one?
The next morning we were woken at 5.30am by prayer chanting from the
nearby mosque, broadcast on speakers at unbelievably high volume. This
was followed by music until 8.00am when peace returned to our
beautiful idyll. Unfortunately at 8.30am the generator for the water
pumps in the nearby pineapple plantation kicks in and they run all day
until time to go home. We were glad to escape on our bicycles as we
went in search of the bird sanctuary, just to find out what it looked
like! We never did find it and once again the heat was searing but I
had spotted a small shop that had a fridge, such luxury a cold drink.
We both sucked hard on the straws, gulping the deliciously cold drink
only to discover this particular lemon drink was more than well
chilled, it had chillies in it. The after burn hit and it was a Catch
22, the more you drank to cool the burn the more it burnt! Claire
couldn't manage hers but I took the pain for the pleasure of that
delicious cold sensation! I also had a master plan up my sleeve.
That afternoon I went out in the canoe again but this time without
Claire as I decided I could manage and she had not been too
comfortable sitting on the floor of the canoe. As the camp canoeist
and I paddled over the river to the first inland lagoon I asked if
anyone had dropped their camera in the river and he said that only a
couple of weeks previously someone had, in their enthusiasm to get a
shot, turned too quickly and capsized the canoe. I became even more
cautious and was relieved to get back to shore complete with my gear.
I had only been out 45 minutes before deciding I had had enough as
well!
That evening I declared to Claire we were off on a second bike ride to
visit the hotel with the cold beer. Heaven awaited. Peddling like fury
I must have covered the couple of miles in record time but my hopes
were soon dashed. The manager was now in attendance and my pleas to be
served with a beer were greeted with the news that they didn't have
any. "Not even in a teapot, in a mug, consumed whilst hidden
somewhere deep in the garden?" I asked.
No was the confirmed reply. I knew he wasn't telling the truth but
hey, they obviously don't
have a licence either so it's residents only.
At least by going back to our humid riverside patio and another tepid
G&L we didn't miss out on the Broad Billed Roller
which sat in a nearby tree
(also known as the Dollarbird and quite different
from the African Broad Billed Roller).
Dollarbird
Once again the we were woken the following morning by the prayer
broadcast at 5.30 am. By 9.00am I was eagerly anticipating Manoj's
arrival and moving on to our next destination. Oh for peace and quiet,
oh for a cold beer... or anything cold.
As we left I considered to myself that I must be one of the few who
have visited Hornbill and not been to the bird sanctuary. All that way
and not going! Am I crazy or not? I can't say I didn't like Hornbill,
the staff are lovely, it's beautifully kept. The birding around the
camp was OK, I knocked off 41 species but only 3 were seen at this
venue only. I did manage 2 lifers in the Roller and the Short Toed
Snake Eagle, my trip total had moved on to 118 but even had I seen the
Frogmouth I questioned whether I would go back.
Ahead of us lay a proper hotel, a swimming pool and, best of all COLD
BEER!
Get me out of here.
As it wasn't too far out of our way to the next destination,
Kodungallor on the coast .
Manoj had kindly invited us to his house for lunch and whilst it was
being prepared he took us down to the local river and hailed the ferry
operator, a canoe, from the other side of the river bank. He suggested
that we first went and got my camera. Having seen zero evidence of any
bird life either on the water of flying around I told him it wasn't
needed. Besides I had survived the Periyar and was relieved at that.
Instead we just had the pocket point and shoot which Claire was
operating. I told him I was happy to try my reacquired paddling skills
with this traditional craft so I couldn't manage a camera too. I'm
still not sure if it was a mistake or not!
Sharp eyed Manoj suddenly announced "There's an eagle in this bush !"
as we paddled close to the river bank. I couldn't see anything other
than the rubbish debris that had built up in the branches when the
river last flooded. "It's right there in front of us" he replied.
Suddenly, as we rounded the bush it was sat right there. A Grey Headed
Fish Eagle, and I don't exaggerate when I saw we were face to face 10
feet apart.
I was awe struck, Claire having heard my enquiry about it's
whereabouts lifted an arm to point. Eagle made it's exit to a nearby
tree. If only Claire had taken a photo. Her camera was now no use as
the bird was 100feet away and obscured. We decided to return for my
camera and walk along the river bank to this point which wasn't too
far away. By the time we returned the eagle was gone and I was left to
rue the missed opportunity. The Grey Headed Fish Eagle is very seldom
seen, never mind from 10 feet away. My only consolation was that had I
had my bigger 300mm lens I wouldn't have got anywhere near the whole
of the bird in the frame from such close distance. Damn,
damn,
damn! That would have compensated nicely for the Frogmouth!!!
After a delicious home made lunch we continued on our way for 2 nights
luxury at the Vidic Resort. Yes, they had cold beer, yes they had a
swimming pool but there were few birds. Set in a residential area but
on the side of the river mouth, I did venture out with my camera on
the first morning but soon found myself like the Pied Piper,
being followed by a dozen and more little boys. I abandoned the
mission deciding that I would join Claire and get stuck into a
paperback by the pool.
The hotel staff where superb, the manager brought us a couple of fresh
coconuts to the poolside and told us he had arranged for the hotel's
motor boat to take us on an evening tour of the local waterways and he
would point out things of interest for me to photograph. He had been
quite impressed when he saw my camera lens and decided the cruise was
essential. Later in the day he apologised that he had been summoned
elsewhere so one of his staff would accompany us. Before boarding I
asked our substitute guide if we would see many birds and was told
not. What with the fading light I decided to take the pocket camera
only. We actually saw lots, although nothing previously unseen. Nice
cruise, passing landmark churches, temples, the fish market and the
Chinese fishing nets.
I hadn't realised until we were presented the bill at checkout that
the hour's cruise wasn't complimentary! Still, not bad at R1500!!!
Our first night had been superbly comfortable but we had had another
disturbed night as there was a Hindu festival at a temple across the
river. Fireworks at midnight fair enough but loud explosions every
half hour all through the night became tedious. Why do people need to
force their enthusiasm, religious or otherwise, on every one else
whether they want to partake or not? The second night there was a
Saturday night, the halfway point of our holiday. The bird species
total had moved on only by the eagle sighting. 119, 53 lifers.
I drifted off to sleep contemplating what lay ahead. Not least
expecting, as it was a Sunday morning to follow, being woken by a
previously unseen church's bells belting out at some unearthly hour.
Thankfully I slept blissfully undisturbed for the first time in
several days!
Right at the beginning of this rather lengthy report I had
mentioned that the beauty of using a local tour operator was the
flexibility and local knowledge. The original route plan had been
under threat before we had left home. Parambikulam wildlife reserve,
the newly appointed second tiger reserve in Kerala had been shut to
the general public because of the threat of forest fires. Even at this
late stage it was questionable as to whether Praveen could pull a few
strings and get us in. One thing had been ascertained on arrival in
Kerala, our proposed stay in a tree house for one night and on an
island with our own bungalow on another would not happen. At best we
would get one night staying within the main visitor complex of about a
dozen tents. It was a long drive from the coast. Manoj had suggested
another homestay within a short driving distance of the reserve but as
we had headed to the Vidic resort with the prospect of cold beers,
lounging by the pool and air conditioned rooms to say nothing of
avoiding a long drive, we had told Praveen during a phone call to
ensure all was well that we were considering cancelling this part of
the journey.
Even after our arrival in Kerala the journey plan had changed, an
hotel with Claire specifically in mind had been cancelled as a sales
conference was taking place there and Praveen suggested it would be
rather noisy and instead we had ended up in Munnar. A good move for
birding but it hadn't been a good place for Claire. The hotel gardens
had lacked anywhere you could sunbathe or even sit and the room
balcony was in shade as the sun was so high in the sky. Although the
tail end of our trip would meet the criteria I wanted Claire to enjoy,
right as of then I was beginning to feel guilty that Claire might not
be getting the holiday she deserved.
I am so glad we changed our minds. Right decision for once! We stuck
with the journey plan and headed off towards the homestay recommended
by Manoj. It meant a long drive that took us out of Kerala and into
the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu but what an incredible find!
Built 100 years ago by a wealthy family with royal connections as a
sort of weekend retreat it was set in the middle of a large farm
estate. It had only 4 bedrooms but it was magnificent. Now managed as
a homestay, there wasn't a resident family but there was an house
manager who treated us as if we were royalty, and an house staff of
two who did the cooking. And wow, what cooking.
Arriving just before lunch we sat down to an incredible feast of
vegetarian food served on banana leaf in the magnificent dining room.
There was just so much food and the attentive staff where hell bent
on us having more! I was well and truly full! Washed down with ice
cold water (I avoid beer at lunch time!!!) Stunning stuff. After
eating we sat in the pillared outdoor lounge area and I soon spotted
plenty of bird activity in the surrounding garden. The first Hoopoe of
the trip, Jungle Babblers and Sunbirds. All in good view and excellent
photographic opportunities. I had spotted a Sunbird using a tap to
drink from so, hoping it would return, I set the camera up to try and
catch that special shot! I didn't have to wait that long before it was
back.
I was reluctant to leave but we had been offered an Ox cart ride
around the estate where we could visit a pottery studio, a coir rope
making operation and a weaving room. It was only fair to Claire that I
went with her, but sooner was better than later as the birds would be
more active later!
On our journey to the homestay we had stopped off at a state liquor
shop to buy a case of beers which had been put in the fridge on
arrival.
Liquor shop, Tamil
Nadu
I'm not an alcoholic, honest, but I must admit you feel as if you have
a problem when you are a customer! There is usually a queue, you order
and pay through a metal grille and you certainly feel you are one of
the drinking classes. More so when most customers (all men) are buying
single bottles and you walk off carry a big box full!
We set off on our dusty Ox Cart journey, closely followed by the
house manager, Daniel, Manoj and Praveen (who had joined us for this
leg of the journey after the Vidic stay) in the car.
Luckily Praveen had suggested loading the camera
equipment "just in case". This time I had listened.
What we discovered next was truly amazing. Our Ox cart took us along a
roadway on a raised bank alongside a string of lakes.
I was told at this time of the year the lakes were
nearly dry as they had been artificially made to hold water for
irrigating the farmland and by March the dry season was nearing it's
end. Earlier in the year there are much greater numbers of birds. You
must be joking. I asked if many birders visit and was told "No"!
What are they missing, this secret gem is just waiting to be
discovered.
Within minutes I was clocking up new sightings
Spot Billed Duck was a first ever
Spot-billed Duck
Pheasant tailed Jacana in full plumage was another first
Pheasant-tailed
Jacana
We had a single Garganey at our local reserve in Conwy last year,
but not in this magnificent plumage!
Garganey
Cotton Pygmy Goose at reasonably close quarters gave my best ever
views . (Did you know that the previous name for the Cotton Pygmy Goose was
Cotton Teal ? In the 1930's when Salim Ali was writing his bird book
it was known as the Quacky Duck, I wonder why they found a need to
change it's name ???!!!!).
The list of previously unseen birds on the trip was growing rapidly.
I'm afraid that thoughts of rope making and pottery where soon
abandoned and Claire, lovely that she is, was happy to stay with me.
We dispatched the Ox Cart and declared we would walk the mile or so
back at our own pace but not before Daniel had rang the house and had
afternoon tea and biscuits served out there on the estate! I decided I
would also return at the crack of dawn next day.
That evening, the dining table had been moved out into the courtyard,
the surrounding area illuminated by candle lit lamps hung from the
bushes. The sky was as clear as can be, and there was no light
pollution at all. The stars were magnificent.
Daniel asked me what I needed. I replied that this was near perfection
and a cold beer would make my day. Embarrassed he told me that, when
we had arrived and asked to put beers in the fridge he had been taken
by surprise and that he had phoned his manager for advice. The rules
of the house were quite strictly Hindu. They had a non alcohol and
vegetarian food only policy. I was only too happy to agree. I for one
would not want to offend such generous hosts.
I settled for a delicious fresh lime soda.......... with ice!
We were served another banquet of gargantuan proportions. Every bit
delicious but way beyond our appetites. I felt awful not being able to
eat most of what was offered. We retired to our magnificent bedroom
and a bed so large you could fit Snow White and all the 7 dwarfs into
it, but so high off the ground you had to step onto a box to climb in! Extremely full following dinner our only request had been that we
only had a light breakfast of coffee and toast!
Up at the crack of daylight I couldn't wait to get out and about.
But my walk along the edge of the lakes wasn't as
productive as I had hoped because the sun was shining directly at me.
Not only was photography a lot more difficult but the birds seemed to
take flight at my approach unlike the previous evening when I had had
the sun behind me.
Peafowl were plentiful, and look so much better in large numbers
and in the wild.
Indian Peafowl
Our plea for a light breakfast had been ignored and another banquet
was awaiting us in the dining room. Thankfully we were not staying for
longer or I would have burst!!!!
As we bade our farewells, we were asked to stop at a small Hindu
temple along the road from the house. Here a small ceremony was
performed to rid the car of evil spirits and ensure we had a safe
onward journey. I'm not a believer, but I was deeply touched.
What a magnificent experience the whole stay had been and one I will
return to again one day in the future. What I find incredible is how
few visitors they get, let alone birders. I could stay for several
days... especially if they reduce the food!
Hopefully someone reading this will give them the custom they
deserve.
My only recommendation for change was that they erect some simple
viewing screens, made with palm leaves or the like, overlooking the
lakes. I could have sat there for days!
My trip total had moved on considerably, 21 new birds took me to 140,
5 new "lifers" moved me on to 58 for the trip. There were 12 species
here that I didn't see elsewhere. A must as part of a future trip!
We were off to the Tiger reserve and I was on an high.
Those following this report might have picked up that the
Parambikulam reserve is in Kerala, and yet we were now in Tamil Nadu.
The reason being that access is only possible from the eastern
approach. This makes the reserve all the more special, well protected
on all sides and far less accessible to tourists than the other Tiger
reserve of Periyar. Parambikulam was only officially granted the
"Tiger Reserve " status in February this year. It was already
recognised as one of the world's 34 diversity hot spots. I would, in
my prior ignorance, have been missing out on something special if we
hadn't visited.
The moment you enter Tamil Nadu from Kerala on the Palakkad to Polachi
road you see an immediate change. It's like travelling into another
country as you have to submit documentation for vehicles etc. The most
noticeable change is the standard of road which is suddenly far
superior. The surrounding countryside is flat on the eastern side of
the Western Ghats and there is much more evidence of farming rather
than plantation cultivation. To get to Parambikulam you have to first
meet up with an appointed park vehicle in Polachi to transport you
because, since 2008 I believe, private vehicles have been banned in
the reserve to minimise disturbance. We left our vehicle (complete
with a case of now ice cold beers from the homestay fridge!) and
climbed aboard the park minibus. The journey is still some 30 kms as
you travel back up into the Ghats. The views are stunning. It soon
became obvious why the park was closed as everywhere was tinder dry,
the forest floor thick with
crispy dry leaves. An irresponsibly thrown smouldering
cigarette end would cause mayhem, not only endangering wildlife but
human life too and destroying valuable habitat. Before arriving back
in Kerala you have to pass through Top Slip on the Tamil Nadu side.
This is another well known camp and birding spot that I had previously
heard of (also closed then). I wonder how many people have been there
and no further?
After our arrival and being shown our tented accommodation which was
better than Perriyar if not quite as good as Hornbill we had lunch.
Hornbill Camp, Parambikulam
Again, accommodation is limited at Parambikulam so we felt even
more privileged to be allowed to stay although the only other people,
a French couple who had been picked up with us probably didn't realise
they had dropped lucky by turning up when we did! It was immediately
obvious that both Praveen and Manoj had been before and they were well
received by the local guides and park staff. We were also lucky to be
introduced to the local forest manager (apologies if that is not the
correct title ) who was extremely charming and seemed genuinely
interested in our visit. He is apparently very progressive in outlook
and highly respected by all the staff in the park. There are several
ongoing developments, not least the very informative and interactive
exhibition centre .
Lunch over we set off on our mini bus tour. And what a tour.... all 5
hours of it! With no one other than the local native villagers around
(all are employed in the park) disturbance was very limited and the
wildlife was very close at hand. Wild Boar are not that wild and seem
to ignore people totally. Sambar deer and Spotted Deer seemed fairly oblivious to vehicles
too but apparently any attempts to get out and they are off.
For safety reasons you are not allowed to get out, and the vehicle
has to keep it's engine running at all times.
Just in case of the need
to get away quickly.
You can see why when you get within metres of elephant. You also
realise that even medium 300mm lenses are useless!
and my 18-70mm was far more appropriate for the same
situation.
Asian Elephant
The birding was excellent too, but photography not good from a
vibrating vehicle and often poor woodland lighting. Probably the best
sighting a Scops Owl flushed from a roadside stream and which
moved onto an open branch for a few moments before disappearing.
Without a doubt though, this was a trip to see big mammals more than
little birds. Most unusual sight was to see an Otter scamper across a
woodland clearing quite some distance from any water, we also saw
Barking Deer (amazing sound, just like a dog!)
Nilgiri Langur, a
monkey similar to the Lion tailed Macaque, Civet Cat, Malabar and
Dusky Striped Squirrels plus Black-naped Hare. No Tiger or Leopard
but you have to be extremely lucky to see these stealthy hunters which
use their surrounds to camouflage themselves to perfection. Even a
beast the size of an Elephant can disappear mere metres away as they
slip incredibly quietly into the undergrowth.
We did get out of the minibus to embark on a bamboo raft trip on the
lake. Stupidly, I had confused bamboo raft with white water raft and
left my camera behind...again. On the walk down to the craft we saw
several bird species and on the water had that elusive River Tern fly
directly overhead. Ah well , such is photographic life!!
By the time we had returned to camp having made stops at the local
village tea shop and one of the dams to admire the views (and
Swifts) it was quite late. After an acceptable meal it was early bed
as we were to get up early the following morning to go on a trek. An
early morning alarm certainly isn't needed in this place because the
sounds of the jungle are very much in evidence, particularly at the
first sign of light. Stepping outside the tent I was amazed to find
monkeys galore in the trees above as well as plenty of avian activity.
Shame the light was still impossible for photography .
We set off on our trek and you realise why the campsite is heavily
protected by electric security fences. Within an hundred metres or so
of camp we found obvious
tiger pug marks as well signs of other
creatures, Porcupine, the remains of something's dinner... Flying
Squirrel, and Sloth Bear droppings. The Sloth Bear is apparently the
most dangerous creature of the lot, big and powerful it's also ill
tempered and if it decides to attack you have no chance of out running
it and it climbs trees too. Best avoided then!
Photography was limited to ID shots as, for portability I took my
smaller lens. We did notch up some great birds though, Heart Spotted Woodpecker,
Blue Faced Malkoha, Jungle Owlet being amongst them. In
total we had seen 41 species (as well as hearing another 9)
10 were
lifers. The trip list had advanced to 150 and my life list an
incredible 78. It was the only place we saw 9 of the species
including, believe it or not, in 5 visits to India my only sighting of
Great Tit. So common in my home garden and apparently, usually so in
India also!
Breakfast over, it was time to leave, we had been in Parambikulam so
little time and yet so much had been packed in. I was asked to sign
the visitors book. Opening the book I couldn't believe the first
entry, it said something like "Fish too bony, not enough choice, add
chicken to the menu" and that was it. Someone had missed the point of
their experience completely, for once I hadn't even given a cold beer
a thought!
What a magical place, somewhere to go back to without a doubt. A night
in the tree house, the island bungalow, and best of all I had
discovered that, on the nights of full moons only, a special tiger
viewing lodge is available, were all still experiences waiting to be
had.
Reluctantly we left, there were two destinations still to go and
another 9 nights left, both designed with Claire in mind. A bit of
luxury, a swimming pool etc. Was my adventure over or would, as has
previously happened on our travels, I find unexpected opportunities?
Before any of this Praveen still had a rabbit to pull out of the bag!
As we pulled away from Parambikulam, Praveen made a phone call.
Bingo! Game on!
A report that a Frogmouth had been seen at Top Slip was confirmed and
it had now been relocated that morning. The mini bus pulled over as we
approached Top Slip. The French guy was unimpressed when we said we
were going to look at a bird, particularly when he was told it was
small brown and ugly! He was only interested in elephant sized
creatures. This walk into the forest was for dedicated birders only,
the rest stayed on the bus! It was half an hour before we returned
and not everyone was happy at the wait. C'est la vie!
I was deliriously over the moon!
Without the Top Slip guide I would never have found this bird even if
taken to within 30 metres of the roost. Even when he pointed it out it
still took a moment to register. The lighting was poor but I had my
tripod so an extra long exposure was made possible and the photograph
is more visible than the actual sighting!
Sri Lanka Frogmouth
For the camera enthusiasts this was taken at 1/30th f4 ISO 400
using my 500mm .
I was pretty happy with the results. You don't often see photo's with
their eyes wide open and looking at you. A strange and interesting
bird. Totally undisturbed by our very close presence.
What a memory to take home!
No matter what lay ahead now, I was happy to have made my number one
objective for the whole trip and doubts about not visiting Thattekad
could fade and rest!
Both Praveen and I were in celebratory mood, it was only his second
ever sighting too.
Our next destination was to be Kumarakam. First we had to
drop off Praveen who had an arrangement to meet up with a camera crew
and production team as he is involved in a weekly wildlife TV
programme on one of the Indian TV channels.
For Manoj, Claire and myself it was a very long journey south ahead of
us, a destination that we wouldn't arrive at until 9.00pm. It was also
tinged with sadness as this was the end of the journey with Manoj. As
he drove off leaving us at our hotel I felt that I was loosing the
good company of a friend not just our driver. I hope we get a chance
to go birding again one day in the future.
Claire deserved some luxury and the Backwater Ripples was certainly
that. Situated on the banks of Lake Vembanad, the second largest lake
in India, it was the one place we had stayed before. It was also the
most expensive. I had mentioned to Praveen earlier in the trip that
this hotel was expensive, more for B&B than we had paid for B&B and an
excellent evening meal (plus the room had a Jacuzzi bath and
complimentary bottle of sherry!) the week before we left for India.
That had been a special occasion, a family gathering for my mother's
90th birthday in the Cotswolds. This was India! That said, you can
pay a fortune for accommodation in India, far more than this
particular hotel too. The wealth divide between rich and poor is huge
in India, there are many multi millionaires nowadays and with a
booming economy it's nice to see far more of the population enjoying
the rewards of their success. Domestic tourism is very much on the
increase and, although everywhere we went was very quiet as the
season was coming to an end, foreign tourists were almost nonexistent.
Praveen had managed to get us upgraded as a consequence and we had the
best room in the hotel. Not so much a room, it was an individual
bungalow suite with it's own private garden overlooking the lake.
Photographic opportunities from the choice of our two patios!
Brown Headed Gull
With convenient posts nearby, I had hoped to catch some Kingfisher
action but it wasn't to be. In fact the birding was disappointing
probably due to the wind that seemed to gather strength as the day
went on.
The sun was strong but the temperature stayed bearable, ideal
for lying by the infinity pool looking out at the vast expanse of
water of the lake. A bit boring too so for the first day I carried on
with my paperback.
In the evening there was little choice other than to eat in the hotel.
Fortunately, the food was reasonably priced and excellent quality. You
could get a cold beer too! Costing R175 a bottle it was only
available to consume in the restaurant or your room, not by the pool
etc. As we arrived, Manoj had pointed out the local off license so I
had wandered up there, bought a case full for our roomy fridge and
transported it back to the hotel by Tuk Tuk. All at a cost of R50 per
650ml bottle. Bliss at a bargain price!!!
Day 2 was back to birding and a visit to the local bird sanctuary.
Too
far on foot it was a short ride by Tuk Tuk, although from the entrance
to the only viewing point, a purpose built watch tower, it was almost
a 2 km walk. I was glad to have taken a bottle of water as I hauled
all my gear with me.
It was disappointing really if truth be known. The walk around the
reserve is surrounded by trees so viewing is more than limited, the
viewing tower is raised up and offers good views over the nesting area
and there was much activity amongst the hundreds of bird there.
Species were limited to Egrets, Cormorants and Herons and the biggest
drawback was that viewing was from inside a cage like affair that
didn't permit my big lens to poke through the gap! However, you could
stand on the stairway up to the platform.
Great Egret
But despite occupying me for a good few hours it was an
unfulfilling experience.
The most unusual sighting were these Fruit Bats, roosting
by the thousand.
Despite the luxury, despite the unlimited cold beers and good food,
when the time came I was ready to move on. The lake somehow seems to
have a soulless feel about it.
I am not a nervous traveller, I don't worry unduly about anything but
that's not to say I am not aware of my surrounds. Whilst we were in
Goa the previous November, the appalling carnage of the terrorist
attacks in Mumbai had taken place. Some people had been put off
visiting India altogether, not helped mind you by the knee jerk
reaction of the Indian Government who put some ill thought out
security measures into place. I will not be put off, the terrorists
will not win on my account.
Suddenly in the middle of our last night there was a flash of light so
bright it woke me up. The bang that followed it was almost
instantaneous. Nice hotel, target, terrorist, plan of escape all
flashed through my brain in milliseconds. Thankfully I quickly
realised that without any prior rumblings we were bang in the middle
of the mother of all storms. Torrential rain, horrendous noise,
shaking room fittings, you name it, we got it. By morning it had
passed through and sunshine had returned. The lake looked decidedly
brighter and we could even see the far side for the first time. There
was much more bird life about too with a small flock of Blue tailed
bee eaters in our garden as well as Flameback and Sunbirds.
The reed-bed in front of the hotel had offered glimpses of a medium,
Pond Heron sized bird, that flew very briefly covering only a short
distance before disappearing again. I think it's Yellow Bittern
but my only capture on camera taken on the last morning is pretty
inconclusive.
A car and new driver arrived to transport us south after breakfast.
The flooded fields on the way out of the village were teeming with
birds, adding several species to that section of the trip. The
photographic opportunities from the road were fabulous. I wished Manoj
had been driving as he would have stopped. I didn't say anything to
our new driver, he had set off to pick us up at 5.00am that morning
and we had another 5 hours drive ahead of us. That's life!
Overall Kumarakam hadn't been too productive. In 3 days only 4 new
species (out of 31 seen) added, but one lifer if the Yellow Bittern
is confirmed! I guess the longer you carry on the more difficult it
is to add new species, I wondered what the last stop might produce ?
The last days of the holiday were spent largely in the grounds of
the Isola de Coco hotel in Poover. The attraction is that it is set in
large grounds so the potential for wild life good. We had a very
pleasant room with large fridge (once again stocked by myself at
basement prices, I was getting wise to hotel prices!) so no
complaints there. The pool was huge and most of the time we had it all
to ourselves as there were very few guests while we we there. The
hotel was lacking in a bit of TLC, a bit jaded in parts but overall
excellent value for money.
What I find difficult to understand is the attitude to rubbish. Their
delightful gardens are blighted by dumps of building rubble and they
even dispose of general garbage in an area very close to the hotel
buildings. It's not uncommon to see lots of rubbish in India. It's an
issue that the population must get to grips with. Not only are they
polluting their own beautiful country but much of the rubbish is
thrown into rivers to carry it out into the sea. When you use your own
doorstep to dump it shows you have little regard or thought for the
subject. Rant over.
In between sunbathing, reading and swimming I wandered around the
grounds looking for subjects. One advantage of having fewer species is
you do try harder to get better shots.
Loten's Sunbird
female
There was certainly plenty to keep me occupied and it didn't
concern me that we were some distance away from anything else. The
days went by happily and the evenings were either spent eating on a
floating restaurant in the nearby lagoon where superbly cooked fresh
fish
could be had at bargain prices, or as happened on two occasions, we
were either picked up to dine in Kovalam for a reunion with Praveen,
Suraj , Vijoy and Reena or on another evening invited to Praveens
parent's house for the honour of being guests in their home for
dinner. That always makes an holiday a bit more special for me.
So it was all over.
Poovar had only added one new bird to the list.
A bit special though,
another lifer, a pair of Black Bitterns. Much to
my frustration, I failed to grab the opportunity to catch them on
camera as they flew to land in a bush feet in front of me. I'd been
awe struck again. Ah well,
that's the beauty of wild life photography
and what keeps my interest up. You never know what to expect, and if
at first you don't succeed, there is always tomorrow, or ........ good
reason to return!
Post script
This rather lengthy report is a labour of love. Kerala is a stunningly
beautiful state and the opportunities for all sorts of holidays are
there to be taken.
From a birding prospective it is not as well publicised as other
states, information on the net is scarce too and so I decided I would
try and do something about it.
Hopefully reading this will inspire you to go and try for yourselves.
Please feel free to email or message me if you have any questions.
I intend to return myself one day in the not too distant future. I
probably wouldn't undertake a tour of so many stops and would try to
cut down on travelling. I had already booked return flights before
arranging the tour and, with hindsight, could have arrived in the
south and departed in the north.
Hope you enjoyed sharing the experience.
cheers
Dave
Some useful web sites for information are as follows :
Special thanks to:
www.ecoventures.in
who organised everything and handled our holiday superbly saving me
the trouble. They can also provide details on homestays, and Arippa
forest which do not have web sites. Contact email addresses and phone
numbers are available on request.
Other useful web sites are
www.thehornbillcamp.com/
www.parambikulam.org/
www.vedicvillageresorts.com
www.deshadan.com/
www.backwaterripples.com/
www.periyartigerreserve.org/
Cheers
Dave
Edited by: Sumit K Sen on 25/05/2010
Original post appears at
North Wales Birding Forum
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